Oil Pressure Sensor Mounted

The last step of the Pressure Sensor Relocation was to find a spot on the firewall for attach the Adel clamp and the sensor to.
The hose was not quite long enough to get it all back to the fuel pressure sensor which others used as an attachment point but I found a good route to get it to the GPS antenna shelf.

This position would also allow for a good route without blocking anything important.

and enough clearance at the exhaust if clamped where I put my hand.

Now the only thing missing at the shelf was at least a hole. I decided to install a nutplate as access was easy enough for the squeezer..

That made the installation a one-screw job.

Please note, that I had also installed the clamp at the end of the fire sleeve. On both ends actually.

Crimping on the spade connectors was a routine job but routing the wire for minimum stress and bends was not quite so easy.

Looks like a lot of wire ties but that way the wire is unlikely to break due to vibrations.
This completed the relocation and added another hour to the time balance sheet of this step. Connecting the sensor to the electrical system was the last open step in Section 46 and so I could close that as well.

Next was to catch up with section 49 and install the oil hoses in preparation of the oil cooler installation. But before that, I noticed an interesting schematic in section 46-11 that shows how this fuel distributor block is put together.

This will be interesting in the near future as my engine is one of those that will require the short fuel supply hose from this distributor to the fuel pump to get replaced. This is covered by another SB, but this time issued by Rotax.

With the help of Vielle Burette's pictures posted on his blog, I was able to quickly tackle the question of How-in-the-world-should-I-route-these-oil-hoses question.

I started in reverse order than the instructions ask for as it appeared to be easier that way.

This was the return hose that attaches to the belly of the engine.

By the way, I tried to go below the friction brace too. It appeared that there was less stress on the hose when routed above the brace as shown in the picture.
The next hose was the one attached to the oil pump. Clearance with the fuel spill over pipe was not good and I had to bend the pipe a bit to get the hose to pass it.

I did not do more on this hose and left the support just temporarily attached to the exhaust bolt. This will get completed when I finally hook it up to the oil cooler.
Next was the oil supply hose and that one was the worst to route. I am really grateful that I had a lot of pictures from other blogs to see which way to go. It's really tight behind the engine now.

You can see that I also installed the air filter on this side now. This was because I saw clearance issues with the spill over hose as well as problems to even get the air filter installed at all after the oil hoses were in place. I had to slightly reroute the spill over hose and also routed the oil hoses underneath the fuel supply hose to get a bit more length out of the oil hose.

I had to lift the oil canister up a bit to clear the air filter, so we will see if this is low enough to clear the upper cowl.

This shot was taken from the left side, aiming at the shelf.

Again, from the left side and below so you can see how the hose is resting on the water hoses.

And the final shot that gives you an idea of the clearance between oil cooler and the muffler. This is also the reason why I might have to do this step again. As I had moved my oil cooler about an inch forward of the position Van's had intended, I might now have too short of a hose (on the left side) to connect it to the oil cooler and mount it to the cowl.
It's not a bit deal! If it turns out to be too short I can order a hose, clamps and a longer fire sleeve from Aircraft Spruce and manufacture my own within an hour or less.

Oil Pressure Sensor Relocated

Initially I wanted to finish the lower cowling by applying the aluminum foil but when I looked into that step a bit more closely I noticed that it would beneficial to have the exhaust and the oil lines pretty much in place. That way you know were the foil is needed most and you don't just apply somewhere.
I was not ready for that but one of the side projects on the way to installing the oil lines was definitely do-able. That was to move the $400 Honeywell oil pressure sensor from the engine back to the firewall where it would be safe from vibrations that obviously kills it very certainly, sometimes within as little as 40 something hours, as some have reported. I did not want to be one of those having to cough up the extra money for a replacement that might just fail before Rotax would reimburse me, maybe, on warranty.
On VAF was an article posted in November 2010 that contained all the relevant details about where to get the relocation kit, what extra parts might be needed, etc.. I can wholeheartedly confirm all that was said in there is true and you should follow that article if you desire to do the same.

The first step is to install the restricted fitting on the 3' oil hose and slide the fire sleeve over it.

I have not put the Oetiker clamp on yet in this photo. The next step was to remove the sensor from the undesired position on the engine. Do not worry. There won't be any oil flowing out there on a new engine.

It came out easily and I was able to clean the engine-side threading with a Q-tip. Some small metal parts and a shaving came out along with the gunk from the Loctite they had used to install it. It is probably the 322 that was also used on the fitting on the belly of the engine as it is tolerant to slightly oily threads.
I also cleaned the threads on the sensor to get that stuff off along with the oil.

Then I had to put on the open fitting on the other end of the hose. That one put up quite a fight I must say. I oil the inside of the hose and the braided end of the fitting but it still did not want to slide into the hose easily.
I worked on this job for about an hour, on and off, and only got it that far:

That was not quite satisfactory - even more so, when I realized that I had forgotten to put the Oetiker clamp over the hose before installing the fitting. The clamp is too small to slight over the fitting, so I had to take it apart again and start again. It did not go easier the second time and I stopped when I reached the point where I was before and installed the clamp.

Then I sealed both ends of the fire sleeve with red RTV.

While the RTV was curing I decided to use the time to clean up another loose end of the engine installation. I had installed a lot of tie wraps forward of the firewall but I did not recognize that none of them were the heat-resitant type, not even the original Van's ones. I decided to remove all of them and install the PEEK ties (brownish) on critical jobs and the less heat-resistant plenum ties (red) on simple stuff. 

The plenum style ties are still much better than the ordinary Nylon type Van's had sent with the kit.

It did not take too long and the job was done, except for one tie that still hold two hoses together where I hope to install the oil pressure sender if the hose is long enough to get there.

The RTV was cured enough to handle it by then and I went ahead and installed the restricted side on the engine, using Loctite 322MS to seal the threads and hold it in place.

Before installing the sensor on the other end I felt it was a good idea to fill the hose with oil to get the air out. The point being that I doubt the oil would escape on the bottom at the restricted end  - or at least so slowly that I could install the sensor with only a minimum amount of air trapped inside the hose. Once the opposite end is closed I doubt the oil would get through the tiny hole on the other side. To hold the hose in an upright position I used the propeller as an assistant.

The aluminum foil on the bottom of the funnel is to tighten the outlet and allow it to get into the hose. It was pretty messy still as I was not able to poor the oil into the funnel slow enough and it backed up with the inevitable spillover.
The last drops were filled into the hole with a syringe and the largest needle I could get (farm supplies). That went much better actually and much cleaner, too. Once the hose appeared to be full, I cleaned the threads from the oil, applied Loctite 322MS to the threads of the sensor and attach the sensor to the hose.

That was it. I removed the tape holding the hose to the propeller and cleaned up the rest of the spillover and put the hose down on the top of the engine. It was getting late and the routing and installing it to the firewall would have to wait.
So far, this job took me 3.5 hours and there is probably another half hour waiting for the cleanup (I have ordered a tool to install the metal clamp on the ends of the sleeve).