Left Bottom Inboard Skin Almost Done

I had a bit more than an hour tonight to rivet the left inboard skin on. I didn't expect this to be enough to finish the job but I was surprised how far I got. Actually I almost finished the job but then I had to make dinner and was called to the kitchen to work on my other duties. We had Aglio y Olio and after eating all that pasta it was time to unwind and get some rest before getting some sleep.
Well, here's the result of tonight's work:


It turned out that when riveting the LP4-3 rivets right before the CS4 holes that you can see a little deformation from the rib flange pushing against the skin. I double checked the manual and cannot find any trimming on these flanges that I might have missed. It's tricky to make a photo of that but I'll try to do it tomorrow night. I this happening in two places on the inboard skin and what I did to fix it is using another piece of straight and plane aluminum as a buffer and a light hammer to flatten that spot. It seems to work well which tells me that the flange is not pushing hard against the skin. So, if you want to avoid this, maybe you want to take a close look at these flanges and slightly bend the edges inwards to keep them away from the skin.


You can see in this photo that I also threw the outboard skin on. Not getting serious on that one yet but I noticed that we must have had a very blustery day as there was a lot of very fine dust (silicon oxide!) all over the inboard skin. So I thought it'd be better to cover the rib flanges from attracting more abrasive material that could get caught between flange and skin when putting the skin on. I don't have a canvas cloth large enough to cover the whole wing but I think I should get one soon. On a second thought, maybe I should get a tarp as the dust is so fine it could probably get through the canvas too easily.

I also tried the 3/8" hole I final drilled for clearing the tie down hook. The photo is blurry (don't really understand why) but I hope you can see how perfect the fit is. I'll try a better photo tomorrow evening and replace this one if it turns out to be better (which is very likely).



BTW: After watching an EAA webinar on the Zodiac CH650 I got a little worried about me assembling the wing on saw horses instead of on a stable and flat table. After all there is a chance that I could introduce some warp to the wing while riveting. I wrote Van's Tech Support a message asking about this and the response was that they are asking for a table in section 17-01 only because it is more stable when pushing and pulling on the wing structure during assembly. The table is not used as a jig (like with the CH650) and if you can make the saw horses stable enough and give them some padding to prevent the thin flanges from getting bent then you're fine.
I used some towels under the wing for padding but mainly to prevent scratches in the primer. I will double check tomorrow night if the padding is soft enough to save the flanges.