Prepped for Stabilator Installation

In the morning - pretty late as I worked until midnight - I crawled back into the tailcone to measure the OAT resistance from the Molex connector end. Same result The OAT probe and the wires are fine. Here's a picture of the PFD with the problem showing itself ("OAT ---" in the lower right hand corner above "(HDG)").


After another trip into the tailcone with the same results, I tried to wiggle the plug a bit while it was plugged in and watch the PFD. Sure enough, when I was pushing down the plug, canting the pins a bit the OAT immediately got a reading of 34C which is close to the 94F I was measuring with conventional thermometer.
I contacted Dynon Tech Support and they are shipping me a new assembled connector with wire ends ready to crimp to the installed cable. I hope this resolves the issue. They say they never had to replace the male plug installed in the ADAHRS - yet.
So then I pulled the aft parts of the elevator cables ithrough the tailcone. Everything went well on that part,


I marked the threaded ends so I wouldn't confuse them while routing them through the fuselage part.


Connecting those dreaded turnbuckles turned out to be a major part though. Whatever I tried I could not connect the cables as the plans stated. They explicitly asked for the grooved side of the turnbuckle to point to the friont of the aircraft. The text is clear and so are the figures depicting the groove on the short side of the cable. The page 32-14 is revisioned and so I believe it to be true. However, the turnbuckle only goes in with the groove on the aft side. That's true for both cables and so I don't believe this is a coincidence. I searched VAF after this episode and it is confirmed that everyone had the same issue. I emailed Van's pretending I didn't check the forum and will see what they say.


Here you see one cable connected with the grooved side pointing aft.


The other cable is not long enough to connect it yet, so I tried the turnbuckle on each side separately. In the picutre you see it connected to the short F-1247A cable and the groove is pointing away from it.


In order to finish the rigging, I need to connect the stabilator and connect the cables to it. So I prepared the installation by setting up a rest for stabilator to sit on while will be fiddling the bolts and the WASHERS in.


As you can see the bolts are pretty well aligned with the bearings they are supposed to go through. This should be helping a bit and might even be able to connect it myself this way.


Tomorrow morning (after another work shift till midnight) I'll go to ground school and see if I can pass my BFR. I might try to connect the stabilator then as I don't know what else to do at this point. I need the rigging done in order to continue, so I better get this out of the way.
I haven't yet decided what to do about the wing electrical connectors. The old system was and is a joke, but I don't know if the new one is really much better. It certainly is work and it doesn't improve my idea of putting in trailer connectors with some slack to connect and disconnect them when putting the wings on and off. I am pretty sure I don't want to run an extra wire for the nav lights alone. It's extra weight and I have never ever used the lights without the strobe on my other plane. I don't think it's worth the effort and if I change my mind I can always add it at the first annual.
Things beyond the rigging? Trimming the canopy!

OAT Installed

I drilled the rudder attach plates when I came home. The distance of the hole positions is 1" and this is fine according to the plans.


They looked a little banged up after drilling and trimming so I primed them again. The primer was still drying when I wrote this so tomorrow I'll add a photo of the finished parts.
I moved on to the OAT installation. This turred out to be a bit more time consuming than I had hoped for because I chose to not install when routing the wires as I wanted to keep the plane on the left side. The left side is also where the OAT would have pocked out so I decided to determine later how to install it.
Drilling the hole was the easy part.


The electrical diagram showed a simple two wire connection so I hoped for an easy installation in form of cutting two wires, install the probe and then solder the wires back together. It turned out that the cable was composed of 3 conductors and one shield.


I cut those wires, installed the probe and soldered the wires back together, reinstalled the shield with aluminum foil and isolated everything.




Everything looked good but when I powered up the SkyView I did not see any temperature readings. As a matter of fact I couldn't remember if I've ever seen any readings. I wanted to check on some older pictures I had taken during the Avionics problems but it turned out that I never took a picture of the primary flight display. So I cannot say if the probe had worked before my installation or not. It was getting late so I deferred further investigations to another day.
I will have to unplug the OAT from the ADAHRS and see if there's either a short or an infinite resistance. Anything else should provide some form of temperature reading. I saw that only the blue and yellow wires are used, so I should be able to trace the problem down if it's in the wiring.

UPDATE: I crawled in the back and measured the resistance between the blue and yellow wires. It looked good, the meter showed 7.12 kOhms and I believe that is a reasonable value. Anything between infinite and close to zero should be fine. Why the ADAHRS is not reporting temperatures, I will have to find out. Maybe reading the manual could help, maybe the Dynon forum has something about it.

Rudder Cables Installed

I began with time consuming electrical work this morning. It is simply amazing to me that it could take the amount of two hours to just install a switch. This is without support by the plans though. The switch in this case was the fuel pump switch I intend to put next to the throttle on the lower center panel. For the installation I needed to locate the fuel pump power supply wire - a work I had better done before final mounting all the harnesses. I was lucky in this case as the wire is a peculiar looking red wire. It's peculiar because it is thicker and stiffer than all the other wires. That way it was easy to trace it back to the Tunnel harness plug (with the help of the diagram again) and then to follow it under the panel base. That's where I cut the wire and installed spade connectors for the installation of the switch later on. With the help of a 12V power supply I also verified that I had indeed cut the correct wire, by hearing the unmistakable sound of the fuel pump when I injected 12V.

Then I soldered the DPST switch. One circuit is to connect the fuel pump to 12V supply, the other is to pull a yet to determine EMS pin to ground. This is to give Skyview the option of knowing in which position the fuel pump switch is and to show a warning if it is off. This should also be avoided by the cover I will put on the switch.

Joeri from the Netherlands had this great idea, and he hinted me to the pages in the installation manual to identify likely EMS pins I could hook-up the switch to. Please note that the pin has to be a female one. I used one from removing unused wires in the harnesses earlier on.

Coming back from lunch, I started working on inserting the rudder cables, so I could final install the plastic sleeves and the ground wires that were still waiting in that area to get connected to the airframe. I hope you can see that milky plastic tube resting on on e of the ribs. It has blue tape attached on the left side that kept it connected to the cable end during insertion.

When installing the cushioned clamps to hold the sleeve in place and also ground the ground wires, I noticed that the ground wire from the PTT switches on both sides were rather short. Too short for me, as the stick movement induced way to much movement in the ground wire as well as it was trying to compensate for its shortness.
They were ok in length when the tube was not installed, but the sleeve now forces the wires to bend 90 degrees and that takes the slack out of it. I opted for extending the wires on both sides by inserting a few inches with a splice. I also found the two ground point to be hopelessly overloaded with ring connectors. This made tightening them in that close quarter a real nightmare. I added a third ground point a few inches behind the left forward one by using the cushioned clamp in the middle of the left sleeve. I removed the primer in that area as well.

It was too windy for spraying paint outside of a paint booth, so I decided to end the day and cleaned up.
I will definitely install the elevator cables as well before starting on the gear legs. I pretty much want to be done as far as possible in the forward lower intestines of the plane before going horizontal with it again. That requires the cables to be installed, some more painting to be done on those little pieces that go aft of the rudder pedal tubes and the ELT antenna installation.

Section 27 Completed

I almost completed two sections today but because of the OAT probe supposed to get installed on the left side where the fuselage is resting on, I couldn't fully complete the second one yet.

The day started early due to the increasing heat. We are in the low 90s today. I started by tightening those nuts that hod the rudder pedals to the shelf. That's when I noticed that I couldn't bottom out the right pedal. It was interfering with the fuel return line at the mounting point of the ruder cables. It is really very tight in that tunnel. No room has been left unused. Fortunately I could bend the return line a bit to give the rudder arm enough clearance. I also tied the cable bundle to the return line to avoid interference with the wires and the rudder arm on the opposite side.

Then I hooked up the lines to the brake reservoir...

... and to the actual brakes.

Then I went in the shop to start the work on the left and center panels. The left one needed some extended countersinking for the marked nutplate holes and for the mountain screws.

I also tried to find a home for my PCAS and I was hoping it would fit in that little spot above the ignition control. I added some markings on the panel to see how much clearance I had - if any.

As you can see, it's just not enough room to go there. I tried the right panel as the top center space will be reserved for the backup GCS.

Yep, that'll do! The work on this will have to wait until I have received my instruments. The Winter ASI with 510 degree arc is on special order as I wanted to get the markings done by the factory. I don't think the ASI will get here before next month. The altimeter should get here by next week. I found install sheets for Winter online, so I should be able to drill the mounting holes without having the actual instrument.
But before that I went back to the left side. The APDC switch hole had to get drilled. Positing was first.

And then it was drilled, using a #30 pilot hole and the step drill to open it up. All done on the drill press.

Please note that the plans are incorrect in asking for a 1/2" hole to be drilled. A 7/16" for the switch is totally sufficient.
It was time to countersink all the holes for the mounting screws AN507 #6.

Then I opened up the hole for the fuel pump switch that I intend to put where Van's had me put the APDC switch. I still think it's not easy to get to that location with the throttle being in the way. However, this is perfect for the fuel pump switch as this is usually supposed to be and stay on.

Back to the left panel. The stiffener angle had to get riveted to it. However, the APDC switch mounting nut would likely interfere with a small part of it. So I marked the area that should get removed.

The material was quickly removed with the SB wheels.

Then I riveted on the angle and the nutplates in the left and center panel.

Now it would be time to put the final finish on but I am not yet decided what to do and so I put them away for later. The right side needs the cut-outs done first anyway.
Looking ahead in the gear section, I found that a few steel parts could use some priming.

Then I spent some time cleaning up in the tunnel. Tightening cable-ties, snipping off the ends and final routing the static line in the tunnel.

The tailcone is still waiting for the brass screws to arrive, so except for tightening the cable-ties a bit, I left it alone.

I'm not sure what to do next. I could go back to the canopy but final finish would require the fuselage to be upright. I've identified some parts that need painting in the interior color and I still have some of the Steward paint left. Maybe I go ahead and do that, so it can cure over the hot and dry weekend.
I also still need to fit the end fairings for the rudder and the vertical stabilator. So that's also a choice for tomorrow.
Either way, I am getting close to putting the fuselage back on its belly.

Rudder Pedals Installed

It was a fight of epic proportion, but I prevailed!

Let me report in proper order though.
First, I worked in the tailcone. With the proper connectors from Ace I could hook up the PE static line to the stub that I had left from the previous static installation. This hose is now used for the pitot line. What made this task difficult was the little leftover stub. That one is made from Nylon whereas the new line is made from PE. The PE seems to stretch more willingly to slide over the hose extension piece. The Nylon was not easy to persuade. I used a bit of Baker-Seal on the Nylon barbs and a pair of pliers to get a firm grip on the barb while pushing the Nylon hose over it with the other hand. It worked put after a while.

Then I made the T extension that runs from the tapped static line in the upper center of the bulkhead to the ADAHRS static port. It's easier to hook this up outside of the tailcone. Then I cut the static line in 12 o'clock position and inserted the tee. I also had installed the connector before putting everything in the tailcone but I let the nut loose for screwing it onto the ADAHRS.

I also drilled out the ADAHRS bracket again and removed the nutplates. Then I located the screws and nuts that Van's asked you to use to install the ADAHRS and checked them for magnetism. Guess what! The screws as well as the nuts are magnetic. I decided not to install anything at this point and ordered a pack of #6 brass screws and nuts, along with some nylon washers to separate the brass nut from the aluminum flange to avoid corrosion.
So it was time to move to the front of the aircraft to install the rudder pedals. Oh what joy!
Some prep work came first. I taped the two tubes together in the hope to have it easier to control them inside the fuselage.

Then I removed the nuts and washers and put the bolts in from the other side. Because of me inserting the assembly sideways, I couldn't rely on gravity to help me keep the upper blocks in place. That's why left the bolts in. They have to get gradually removed in order to slide the thing in. There's hardly any room in there, so heavy cursing is in order!

If you do this sideways, focus on the upper block and cant the whole thing a bit outwards so this upper block is the first sliding under the shelf. As soon as the bolt blocks movement, remove one and move on until the second one makes contact. At that point release the cant and see that you get the center block in beyond the first bolt, then work on the lower block. It took me a while to figure this out and all that in awkward position, with waning light and no room to work, while holding the assembly in one hand (did I mention it gets heavy after a while?). The fact that I first had to clear the two short wires and the static line didn't make it easier either. After about half an hour of fighting and scaring my neighbor with my cussing, I had it in and one of the upper bolts some threads into the nutplate. I just hope I never have to get these out again!

I started the two upper and the two lower bolts until they started resisting (need a drop of Boelube each), then I removed the center bolts and installed the little wire support angle (page 31-13 or so) and engaged the two bolts in threads as well.
Getting that tie wrap around the wires and through the two holes in the angle was no fun. I think, I'd do that first, before mounting it to the plastic blocks had I to do this again.

It looks like I can finish section 27 (rudder pedals) and section 31 (basic wiring) tomorrow. That'd be a nice change over starting new sections all the time!

A Day of Swearing

It started all so good this morning. I happily finished the fitting of those control sticks and installed them, starting with the left side.


The easiest way in my eyes, is to installed the pushrod to the control stick before installing the stick. The area around the stick is so tight, you can hardly fit a hand in there - not to mention any tools.
This is how mine looked like before trying the first time to get this into the fuselage.


Notice that this special bushing that connects the pushrod to the mixer plate is installed on the end of the pushrod. This will not fit into the fuselage. It's just about an inch too long to slide through all the narrow openings. At this point I didn't know that though.
So, I tried to get in somehow but to no avail. Back to the bench, taking the bushing off gave me enough clearance to slide the assembly into place. Putting the bushing back on the pushrod inside the fuselage is fairly easy.


That worked so well, I did the same on the right side. This time leaving the bushing off from the beginning.


This one turned out to have too tight of a fitting to the control column bracket and so it had to come out again for some more filing.
Eventually, I had them both installed, perfectly fitted, torqued and secured with cotter pins. Boy, was I proud of myself!


I shouldn't have put the cotter pins in, that's always a bad omen. Particularly, if you don't have any spares... but I was yet to find that out.
So, back to the work bench and getting those grips ready for installation.
A hole punch cleared the top of the grips with a perfectly cut 1/4" hole, despite the fact I have those grips where you can't take the end off.


The switch was quickly installed by tying a string around the head of the actuator of the switch and pulling it through the hole. If the switch ever breaks and has to get replaced I might have to cut the grips off though to get to the wires.
With the assembly I went outside to pull the wires through the stick with the string I had installed and secured weeks ago. Well, and that's when my day just fell apart.
The string on the left wouldn't budge. I mean it wouldn't even move half an inch in either direction. It was just fine before I did the painting and I haven't felt the need to verify that it would still move, because why shouldn't it???
I cursed and pulled. Wouldn't move.
I cursed some more and pulled the other way. Nothing.
At some point I was yanking on that string like a maniac but it all didn't help, the string wouldn't move.
It took me some moments to realize that the only way to do this was to take the stick out, pull the string so hard that it would tear and start from scratch.
And that's what I did. I even burnt the rest of the string out that was still stuck somewhere inside the control stick. I used the vacuum technique to suck in another string which worked just fine, and this one moved without a hitch.
Having the stick on the work bench made the installation of the grips easier it turned out. I was using some shrink tube to attach the wire to the string. I have some expensive tube that doesn't just shrink but also stays flexible once it was activated and allows to get pulled around corners, which might have been helpful today.


I attached the shorter wire to the longer one with some duct tape on this stick. The right one got another shrink tube as it just worked better.


Sliding the grip over the control tube was a tough one until I remembered reading on the forum to let the grip slide on a cushion of air. I found a nozzle that could get pushed under the grip a little and it worked like a charm.


Now back to where we were before. Installing the stick, this time with the wires and the switch in place.


This time it all worked. I retorqued the AN4 bolt and I even found a bag of fitting cotter pins that I had forgotten about. Some extras I must have bought from Aircraft Spruce a while back, for days like today!

Then on to the right stick. This time I was certain I could install the grip on the fuselage as there was no way a second string would have tightened up magically. I was partially right.
The string did move indeed and I attach the wire to the string, pulling happily... until it came to a sudden stop. First I thought the bulky shrink tube would be the problem and get stuck or something. Pulling back showed that the tube was untouched. I tried and tried again but every time the string came to a sudden stop at the same spot.
Finally I lost my temper and pulled to hard that I tore the string and the end came out.
Turned out that I had added some knots on the string to make sure it wouldn't accidentally get pulled all the way through. How thoughtful of me!!! Only I put the knots on the wrong side of the obstruction!
So the same procedure repeated itself. Getting stick out, back on work bench, pulling a new string, installing wire, sliding grip on, installing stick in the fuselage yet again.


This photo doesn't show how much time went into this apparently so simple installation of control sticks and some microphone switches. I also took the time to check if the switches were actually working. With my luck today I should have found at least one to be defective.
Both worked, so I'll have to pay for that on some other day, I guess.

Checking the rest of the wiring section 31 revealed that most of it is now related to the tailcone which I haven't installed yet, so I decided to continue section 32 which takes care of the control elements. The sticks were in and the next thing is to install the mixer and the flap handle, which makes sense as they both actuate the flaperons. When I get to the rudder cables, I will have to think about installing the tailcone next. I don't think that it would make much sense to keep it off much longer.


Prepping and priming the next parts for the flight controls.


The flap handle ready for installation once the interior has been added.