Flaperon... continued

This morning I took a look at the left flaperon and I saw that I had creased the main skin in a few spots which had escaped me yesterday. Fortunately it was the outboard skin only and I checked in the Van's store that this skin is just $25. That made it pretty easy to decide that I drill out 132 rivets to get the skin out. I ordered the replacement skin right away and also another 300 LP4-3 rivets - just in case.
In the afternoon I drilled out those rivets and removed the skin, cleaned up the mess the drilling left behind and put the flaperon away as I don't want to continue without the outboard skin in place. The whole structure is very flimsy with just one skin on.
I also revisited the actuator bracket and polished the spots I had nicked yesterday when squeezing the solid rivets.

Then I dared to open yet another chapter in the flaperon story. I started the right flaperon! With the knowledge from screwing up the left one, it worked a bit better this time. I finished all the match drilling on the stainless steel tube and I did a completely different approach this time. After clecoing the skin on and adjusting everything for a nice fit - there still was some weirdness about how the skin was bulging along the main spar and it needed a lot of clecos to stay flat in place - I started to dimple the tube again by pre-drilling with #40 bit. I dimpled a bit deeper than before and I had the feeling I could keep the drill in place and push through, so I did. One hole worked fine and so I went on to the next one and that one worked fine, too. So I ended up pre-drilling all the holes on the nose skin side by hand. I had already drilled the outer two holes that connect the tube to the nose ribs on the drill press as I did with the left one. I was wondering about doing the final drilling on the clecoed structure as well and gave it a try with one hole which worked out fine again. I ended up also final drilling all the holes manually. I think I did a good job, we'll know for sure when I rivet the skin on. If you follow this technique, make sure you apply Boelube to the drill bit with every hole you drill. Especially the #30 got pretty hot occasionally and I saw the Boelube evaporating right before the drill broke through the steel.
I took the structure apart and deburred everything and that ended the day in the shop today.

Sorry, no pictures but there wasn't a lot to photograph anyway.