Trim Fixed, Wing Seals Installed

Saturday I went out to the hangar and swapped the pins 31 & 32 on the Fuselage harness. Unfortunately, I had to use a not yet broken in pins removal tool and getting these pins out took me about 45 minutes and I nearly broke that removal tool trying to get them out.
When they came out it was a matter of seconds to swap and insert them again and it did fix the problem. The trim motor is now working correctly.

The following pictures were taken with trim full down. With the stick fully forward, the AST measures 3/8" above the Stabilator trailing edge. Exactly as depicted in the PAP.

The next one is with the stick fully aft and the trim all down.

Now the opposite setting with trim all up I forgot to take pictures of. The AST then measures 7/16" or a tad more above the stabilator TE with the stick fully aft. That's a bit less than the nominal value of 9/16" in the PAP but I don't think I need the full range for trim up anyway.

I re-did the trim calibration in the Dynon and re-set the take off position. The 2.94V is the take-off position which is the equivalent of 1 7/8" above the stabilator with the stick fully aft.

That places the take-off position slightly below the middle of the travel range .

I also enabled the COM radio support in the Dynon, so it shows the currently selected frequency (in the right half of the title bar) and also allows for changing the standby frequency from the Dynon (with the additional TX wire installed).

Then I threw on the patched up top cowl and checked if the build up would be sufficient and nicely following the shape of the cowl.

I think that looked promising. I need to sand the edge down for proper fit again and then start the installation of the piano hinge again. With a little TLC and filler, this should eventually look like nothing bad had ever happened.

The final step was to install the wing root seals and trim back the skin enough to allow for enough clearance to install a seal.
With a sawhorse as a rest for the wing, it is actually pretty simple to do this job without a helper. As long as the wing spar stays on the roller and inside the fuselage you can easily handle the wing and pull it out enough to work on the root.

I sanded back the skin in the area of the landing gear reinforcements using a portable HF belt sander (3x21) and a Zirconium belt. That worked very well! I used the 1" SB wheel on a die grinder to deburr the skin before calling it good enough.

I pushed the left wing back in and marked the outline of the root seal with a Sharpie.

That was the last task for Saturday and I left the installation of the seal for the following day.

Sunday, the wing was pulled out again and I installed the seal. This seal is supposed to be temporarily installed before the plane gets painted and when I will install the material I got from Van's.

This 1/4" thick seal (the same as Vans') compresses a bit easier and the grey color blends in nicely with the bare aluminum.

With the help of a rubber mallet, the bolts went in to hold the left wing without restricting the right one.

Out came the right wing, was quickly sanded and deburred and the foam tape was installed.

The wing went back in and it looked good from the outside.

But the bolts would not go in and grab the second spar. Even the mallet did not help in this case.

I did not have enough tie downs at the hangar to try to put some inside pull on the wings but that is what I am going to try next. Maybe with a little bit of inboard tension I can start the bolts and drive them home with the mallet.

That might even be a job I could do during the week.