Oil Pressure Sensor Relocated

Initially I wanted to finish the lower cowling by applying the aluminum foil but when I looked into that step a bit more closely I noticed that it would beneficial to have the exhaust and the oil lines pretty much in place. That way you know were the foil is needed most and you don't just apply somewhere.
I was not ready for that but one of the side projects on the way to installing the oil lines was definitely do-able. That was to move the $400 Honeywell oil pressure sensor from the engine back to the firewall where it would be safe from vibrations that obviously kills it very certainly, sometimes within as little as 40 something hours, as some have reported. I did not want to be one of those having to cough up the extra money for a replacement that might just fail before Rotax would reimburse me, maybe, on warranty.
On VAF was an article posted in November 2010 that contained all the relevant details about where to get the relocation kit, what extra parts might be needed, etc.. I can wholeheartedly confirm all that was said in there is true and you should follow that article if you desire to do the same.

The first step is to install the restricted fitting on the 3' oil hose and slide the fire sleeve over it.

I have not put the Oetiker clamp on yet in this photo. The next step was to remove the sensor from the undesired position on the engine. Do not worry. There won't be any oil flowing out there on a new engine.

It came out easily and I was able to clean the engine-side threading with a Q-tip. Some small metal parts and a shaving came out along with the gunk from the Loctite they had used to install it. It is probably the 322 that was also used on the fitting on the belly of the engine as it is tolerant to slightly oily threads.
I also cleaned the threads on the sensor to get that stuff off along with the oil.

Then I had to put on the open fitting on the other end of the hose. That one put up quite a fight I must say. I oil the inside of the hose and the braided end of the fitting but it still did not want to slide into the hose easily.
I worked on this job for about an hour, on and off, and only got it that far:

That was not quite satisfactory - even more so, when I realized that I had forgotten to put the Oetiker clamp over the hose before installing the fitting. The clamp is too small to slight over the fitting, so I had to take it apart again and start again. It did not go easier the second time and I stopped when I reached the point where I was before and installed the clamp.

Then I sealed both ends of the fire sleeve with red RTV.

While the RTV was curing I decided to use the time to clean up another loose end of the engine installation. I had installed a lot of tie wraps forward of the firewall but I did not recognize that none of them were the heat-resitant type, not even the original Van's ones. I decided to remove all of them and install the PEEK ties (brownish) on critical jobs and the less heat-resistant plenum ties (red) on simple stuff. 

The plenum style ties are still much better than the ordinary Nylon type Van's had sent with the kit.

It did not take too long and the job was done, except for one tie that still hold two hoses together where I hope to install the oil pressure sender if the hose is long enough to get there.

The RTV was cured enough to handle it by then and I went ahead and installed the restricted side on the engine, using Loctite 322MS to seal the threads and hold it in place.

Before installing the sensor on the other end I felt it was a good idea to fill the hose with oil to get the air out. The point being that I doubt the oil would escape on the bottom at the restricted end  - or at least so slowly that I could install the sensor with only a minimum amount of air trapped inside the hose. Once the opposite end is closed I doubt the oil would get through the tiny hole on the other side. To hold the hose in an upright position I used the propeller as an assistant.

The aluminum foil on the bottom of the funnel is to tighten the outlet and allow it to get into the hose. It was pretty messy still as I was not able to poor the oil into the funnel slow enough and it backed up with the inevitable spillover.
The last drops were filled into the hole with a syringe and the largest needle I could get (farm supplies). That went much better actually and much cleaner, too. Once the hose appeared to be full, I cleaned the threads from the oil, applied Loctite 322MS to the threads of the sensor and attach the sensor to the hose.

That was it. I removed the tape holding the hose to the propeller and cleaned up the rest of the spillover and put the hose down on the top of the engine. It was getting late and the routing and installing it to the firewall would have to wait.
So far, this job took me 3.5 hours and there is probably another half hour waiting for the cleanup (I have ordered a tool to install the metal clamp on the ends of the sleeve).